Ingo Radtke, Secretary General of Malteser International, reports from Lebanon:

Tuesday, November 28, 2006

Having coffee and scrambled eggs, the crisis of the Lebanon is catching us once again: At breakfast, we have to learn how close the crisis was in fact that very night: On Sassine Square which we had already crossed several times on our way to the shopping centre, supporters of two rivalling Christian parties tonight had a severe collision. Only a huge team of several hundred soldiers was able to prevent serious clashes. Fortunately, we were not affected by the turmoil in any way. However, the newspaper articles made us assume that such scenes might happen more often in the coming weeks.

We leave Beirut towards the rising sun, going up into the Lebanon Mountains. The serpentines are quite an experience - because of the fascinating view on Beirut and the Mediterranean Sea and also due to the adventurous overtaking manoeuvres of the Lebanese people. In the barren highland region we pass by military positions left over from the Second World War with which the British had planned to defend themselves in case of a German attack. Further in the north, one can even go skiing from January onwards - and when - after having crossed the pass - the Beqaa valley appears in front of us we can indeed see snow on top of Mount Hermon.

At the foot of the mountains, in the health centre of the Lebanese Association of the Order of Malta in Barka, nurse Marie Rachel is waiting for us with welcoming words, self-made marmalade and new stories. Here, too, the situation has calmed down since the days of war when even the valley between the high rocks was bombarded. 'Over weeks, we had to treat victims of the war with burnings and wounds at the legs and the back and change their bandages', the small, resolute nurse tells us. 'But now everything is normal again, most of the Shiite displaced persons returned home.' This morning, a dozen patients are waiting for blood drawing, counselling and medicine in the hall of the centre, among them also a group of elderly men in loose black trousers.

While the health centre was already working at its capacity limit in July and August, nurse Marie had to coordinate the construction works additionally. For when the war broke out, workers had just started the renovation of the building which is strained each year anew by the snowy winters. Today, the health centre, financed with the help of Malteser Germany, shines freshly painted in the sunlight. And yet - there are still investments necessary: a few renovations are to be done, new medical equipment is needed - and substitute for the two 20 year old, rattly cars.

'The people are still afraid of new fights', nurse Marie says, although, in this region, Chris-tians and Shiites are living together peacefully. The employees are worried as well in the light of the recent assault: 'You always ask yourself: who will be the next?'

The question is accompanying us on our way back, leaving behind the Shiite Baalbek which welcomes its visitors with the portraits of Ayatollah Khomeini and of the Hezbollah leader Hassan Nasrallah, and leaving behind the Christian Zahlé which is overlooked by a giant statue of the Madonna. At the roadside, we see posters with portraits of politicians - and with photos of the crime scenes where they were killed. 'We will not forget' is written alongside. There are many different motives existing, too many. Since last year, there have been seven heavy terrorist attacks with more than two dozen people killed.

In the light of these incidents, the work of organisations like the Order of Malta and its international network, providing aid for people in need without distinction of religion, race or political persuasion, seems to be all the more important. Majestically, Beirut appears in front of us, with the sun above the ocean. A peaceful view of a troubled city.

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