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By John Ruwitch

HONG KONG, June 29 (Reuters) - Hong Kong headed into a weekend of ceremonies to mark the 10th anniversary of its return to Chinese rule on Friday, and Hu Jintao landed in the bustling city for the first time since he became China's president.

Hu's visit is a symbolic milestone for Hong Kong after a low point in 2004 when, on a trip to nearby Macau, Hu dressed down then leader Tung Chee-hwa for poorly managing the city of nearly 7 million.

Hu, who will swear in Hong Kong's leader and cabinet to a new five-year term during his trip, last visited the city in 1999 when he was vice president.

"I feel sincerely happy about the achievements of Hong Kong in the 10 years since returning to the motherland, and even more full of confidence in Hong Kong's future," Hu told reporters on the tarmac.

Despite rough patches in the decade since the end of British colonial rule -- including an economic slump, the perceived weak governance of former leader Tung and the SARS epidemic -- analysts generally give Hong Kong plaudits. The economy has rebounded and the stock market is hovering near record highs.

POLLUTION, WEALTH GAP

The past decade has seen the Hong Kong economy become increasingly reliant on the mainland.

On Friday the two sides agreed to deepen a 2004 trade pact, known as the Closer Economic Partnership Agreement (CEPA) that has slashed tariffs and given Hong Kong companies freer access to mainland markets.

But critics note that problems like air pollution and the rich-poor gap have worsened, and decry Beijing's heavy-handed management of political change in the territory, despite popular support for democracy.

On Sunday, the day of the anniversary, Hu will swear in Chief Executive Donald Tsang and his cabinet to a new term in office.

Tsang became chief executive when Tung resigned in 2005. Tung cited health reasons for his departure, but it is widely believed that Beijing forced him to step down.

Hu is likely to be followed by protests of pro-democracy activists and members of the Falun Gong spiritual movement, which is banned on the mainland and branded an "evil cult" but remains legal in Hong Kong.

Falun Gong says the Hong Kong government has blocked more than 140 Taiwanese practitioners from entering the city in the days ahead of the handover anniversary. Hong Kong's immigration department has declined to comment specifically, but says it reserves the right to decide who can enter the city.

Pro-democracy legislators and other activists plan a protest march on Sunday. A Hong Kong pollster predicted that up to 60,000 people could turn out, the South China Morning Post reported.

Britain returned Hong Kong on a rain-soaked July 1, 1997, after 156 years of colonial rule: meteorologists are forecasting a possible repeat of the wet weather.

Hu, who is also head of China's ruling Communist Party, will also attend a flag-raising ceremony, visit a local family's home and make an inspection of the local People's Liberation army garrison.

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